Nah!: 5 Trends I am NOT Feeling from the Spring/Summer 2023 Season
By Brittany Furber
As we enter a new season, I am reviewing five trends that I am NOT feeling from Spring and Summer 2023. I found it harder to write the list this time because I enjoyed what I saw. So, this time, I will lean towards versions of these trends that I prefer and the cons of other examples.
All Things Cropped
Examples:
The trend of crop tops and other garments is on point with the current resurgence of the 90s and early 2000s tendencies. Crop tops and jackets appear in the collections of Alaïa, Chanel, Dion Lee, Elie Saab, Gucci, Miu Miu, and more, as seen on VogueRunway.com and WWD.com.
Crop tops and jackets can come in different silhouettes and hem lengths that allow one to style them in a manner that flatters multiple body types. As a result of its versatility, it can be a garment that one would want to keep around for a while. At Chloé, crop tops pair with a matching bottom and a mesh dress on top (See Look 30 on VogueRunway.com), slouchy pants (Look 26), or hot pants (Look 20). Meanwhile, Gucci offers crop blazers as seen in look 20 at VogueRunway.com. Monse presents crop tops with crinoline-style skirts (see Look 9 at WWD.com).
Cons:
However, despite being aligned with the zeitgeist, crop tops appear so much that it no longer makes a strong impression. However, the item could be set aside just for a while in favor of more experimenting and variety. Some silhouettes provide a similar but elevated vibe.
Alternatives or Better Versions:
I don’t hate the look, but we should look for similar alternatives including extreme and strategically placed cut-outs that almost create a cropped look. Carrying over from Fall 2022, as detailed in my previous post here, cut-outs once again have hit runways. They are dynamic construction detail that has nearly endless ways of being implemented. As a result, cut-outs are a creative alternative to a cropped silhouette.
For example, at Carolina Herrera, as seen at WWD.com, drapery forms cut-out shapes, which show slivers of the torso while creating a sense that the clothing slithers around the rest of the body (See Looks 6, 9, and 49). The overall effect is youthful yet restrained and streamlined. Balmain presents cut-outs formed again by drapery creating triangular shapes that travel across the bodice and waist (See Look 76 on VogueRunway.com). The look adds visual interest while showing off the figure. Look 90 uses cut-outs in the same fashion but results in cuts that mimic the appearance of a rib cage. Prabal Gurung’s collection incorporates smaller more decorative slices within looks 2, 3, 31, and others, as seen at WWD.com. Cut-outs, as these examples illustrate, allow for a range of aesthetics and approaches to be achieved.
The first two examples illustrate different ways to style crop tops. The remaining images show ways to use cut-outs for visual interest.
Images by (Left to Right) Marcelo Chagas from Pexels; Jakob Owens on Unsplash; Jose Mizrahi on Unsplash; jens holm on Unsplash
Added Cargo
Examples:
Another trend readily on the runway is utilitarian garments such as cargo pants or shorts. Coperni, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Ferragamo, Fendi, and others, as seen on WWD.com and VogueRunway.com, feature these styles in their lineups.
At Brunello Cucinelli, for example, the collection includes more traditional styles of cargo pants, shorts, jumpsuits, and trench coats, as seen on WWD.com. Look 28 includes pants that taper at the ankle and allow for a more tailored look. Coperni and Givenchy, as seen on VogueRunway.com, also present the more common take on these styles.
Meanwhile, the collection at Hermés includes cargo shorts and outerwear with sleeves with drawstring cuff details or grommets. The brand’s take on this trend due to these extra facets provides a refreshing twist (See Looks 4 and 8 on VogueRunway.com).
Cons:
The trend is practical, but it has shortcomings depending on its execution. From experience, depending on one’s body type, one may find that the placement of their pockets on these garments adds bulk where it isn’t needed. For someone smaller in stature or curvier, this can be a drawback. Miu Miu’s current collection, as seen on VogueRunway.com, has this con because its shorts, skirts, and outerwear possess bulky fanny pack-sized pockets. Having them located in other areas may present challenges for other body types and statures. The trend ultimately needs adjustments for each person.
Alternatives or Better Versions:
With this trend, one must find to version that works best for one’s individual needs. So instead of saying that one iteration is better than another, a few different options will be offered.
Monse presents a look that features a cargo mini skirt with a pocket located at the front of the garment, which helps to reduce adding extra width at the hips (See Look 1 on VogueRunway.com). The skirt is paired with a cropped jacket with pockets incorporated in a manner that mimics the compartments of a bag. The ensemble would work well for someone who wants to minimize width on the bottom but can afford more width up top. Monse’s collection demonstrates a variety of options for trying out this trend, depending on the individual. If one example doesn’t work for you, browse the rest of the collection for different takes on this trend. The design of the cargo pants in look 7, for example, wisely places bulkier pockets away from the hips.
Jonathan Simkhai presents a more deconstructive take on the utilitarian trend of placing collars, lapels, and pockets in less conventional locations, as seen on WWD.com. For example, the brand shows trench-style collars on skirts (See Looks 12 and 14). The skirts are draped but have structure. They also have a slim pocket in front of the hip rather than alongside it.
Blumarine also rifts on cargo pants by giving them a more punk interpretation by having hanging straps of grommets attached to them in strategic placements, as seen in look 28 at VogueRunway.com. The collection also features a bra top with little pockets at the front and a matching long skirt with a thigh slit, once again with grommets (See Look 32). The ensemble blends femininity, punk, and an edge.
These are just a few examples of ways to wear utilitarian garments. Try out and experiment with different options to find the right version for you.
The first example is a more traditional version of this trend. The remaining versions show variations that suit several body types and needs.
Images by (Left to Right) Wan Mohammad Aliff from Pexels; Aliya Amangeldi on Unsplash; Kweku Ananse from Pexels; Josh Sobel on Unsplash
Fringe Adornments
Examples:
Fringe adornments also are significantly present within the Spring and Summer 2023 collections. It is common knowledge at this point that the use of fringe is a means to mimic a trend widely and stereotypically associated with the 1920s. As seen on VogueRunway.com and WWD.com, collections by Alaïa, Chanel, Jonathan Simkhai, Norma Kamali, Proenza Schouler, and more feature fringe details within their designs.
The iterations of this trend include a fringe tube top, pants, and short dress at Norma Kamali, as seen at VogueRunway.com (See Looks 15, 22, and 24), and as trim at the hem of a garment at Jonathan Simkhai (See Looks 34 and 35 at WWD.com). At Chanel, fringe serves as surface ornamentation at the front of a tailored tweed dress (See Look 23 at WWD.com).
Cons:
As with the case of cropped silhouettes, I don’t hate fringe, but I like having more variety in the mix. I also believe that this trend is more exciting when combined with other elements, such as the following example.
Alternatives or Better Versions:
While fringe is a fun construction detail, I am more excited about another example, and that is the use of lacing. Lacing is decorative yet functional, which gives it a multifaceted appeal.
Coperni uses lacing in between slashes in the bodice of a dress or top, as seen at VogueRunway.com (See Looks 30, 31, and 32). The lacing holds puzzle pieces of fabric together and adds additional visual interest. Monse incorporates this feature on a bra top, skirt, at the sides of a dress or sleeve, and front of a suit jacket, as seen at VogueRunway.com (See Looks 1, 2, 18, 23, and 37). Chloé’s newest offerings at WWD.com, utilize lacing on the sides of pant legs, as a decorative flourish at the shoulders of leather or faux leather coat, and the sides of sleeves (See Looks 6, 17, 22). These and other examples illustrate the dynamics of lacing within garment construction and many options for the aesthetics that are achievable.
The first two examples highlight the trend for fringe details, while the remaining images offer an alternative.
Images by (Left to Right) Jhoon from Pexels; naeim jafari on Unsplash; Olga Divnaya from Pexels; pawel szvmanski on Unsplash
All-Encompassing Denim
Examples:
Another 90s and early 2000s influence present within the collections from the season is the incorporation of denim sets à la Britney and Justin. Sets of denim garments are observable in the collections of Alaïa, Alice + Olivia, AZ Factory, Chloé, Miu Miu, and more, as seen at WWD.com and Vogue.com.
AZ Factory includes matching and contrasting denim sets, as seen at VogueRunway.com (See Looks 4 and 11). The first set has a dark wash, while the second example has a mixture of lighter and darker washes. Alice + Olivia presents acid-wash denim matching pants and skirts (See looks 16, 17, and 18 on VogueRunway.com). Miu Miu also presents acid-wash denim, but in black, and has both pairs and singular pieces (See Looks 21 and 22 at VogueRunway.com).
Cons:
In my opinion, denim sets can be hard to wear. They seem inappropriate for most occasions and can be a bit quirky. On the other hand, they are great for situations where one might venture outdoors. Overall, I have never been a huge fan of this look, especially when the washes of the denim match perfectly.
Alternatives or Better Versions:
I prefer seeing one unique or statement-making garment fashioned from denim rather than multiples and pairs. There were a few denim garments that caught my attention this season.
The bra top of Look 35, as seen on WWD.com from Givenchy, is a stand-out piece. The bra top felts belt-like details that envelope the bust, providing extra support and an edgy aesthetic. Burberry offers another garment that caught my eye in this category. As seen at VogueRunway.com, Look 3 features a long denim skirt with the unique detail of curvilinear lines that trace down the sides of the body, giving the garment both patchwork and almost body-con qualities. Another unique denim piece was present in the collection of Alaïa. Look 19, as seen at WWD.com, features a denim skirt that has a soft quality due to its use of drapery. It drapes in a manner that shows off the reverse side of the fabric, thereby creating contrast alongside the dark wash exterior of the garment. These examples make an impression by using denim more uniquely and intricately.
The below images illustrate examples of denim sets and/or one standout piece.
Images by (Left to Right) David Suarez on Unsplash; Mat Umar from Pexels; Lola Russian from Pexels; Anna Shvets from Pexels
Slouchy Shapes
Examples:
Garments with a slouchy and loose quality were also prevalent on the runways for the Spring and Summer 2023 seasons. As seen on WWD.com and VogueRunway.com Chloé, Peter Do, and Proenza Schouler all had looks that feature this characteristic.
These aesthetics are in some of the button-down shirts and pants within Peter Do's collection, as seen at VogueRunway.com (See Looks 7 and 55). At Chloé, most garments are more structured, as seen at WWD.com. However, the pants of several looks are more relaxed, which creates an interesting contrast within the ensembles (See Looks 8, 11 and the collection as a whole). The same attributes apply to the pants styles of Proenza Schouler, as seen at WWD.com (See Looks 7 and 11).
Cons:
While slouchy garments give off a sense of ease, they can also add a significant amount of extra volume. The fact that this can occur may be a drawback to some and not others. I prefer garments with a fitted component alongside an element with more width. As someone of a shorter stature and curvier figure, I need to mind my proportions accordingly. The trend here is another one that depends on the needs and characteristics of the individual. If like me, you need an alternative, a few will follow.
Alternatives or Better Versions:
Focusing solely on alternatives for slouchy pants, bell bottoms, flares, and pants with slits down the center of the hem are options that add some ease but provide some structure. These options allow for a closer fit at the thigh and knee areas while having some volume around the ankle. Alaïa, Alice + Olivia, Blumarine, and Norma Kamali are a few brands that offer such styles this season, as seen at VogueRunway.com and WWD.com.
Within Alice + Olivia’s lineup, one can find flared jeans and pants with slits down the front of the ankle (See Looks 12 and 17 at VogueRunway.com). At Alaïa, leather bell bottoms provide structure and edge and a relaxed fit around the ankle (See Look 25 at WWD.com). The hem of the pants is mid-length, which also allows for a more effortless gait. Norma Kamali offers bell bottoms and flared pants in various widths for different preferences, as seen at VogueRunway.com (See Looks 22 and 69).
The first two images are examples of slouchy pants silhouettes. The remaining examples are alternatives to this trend.
Images by (Left to Right) cottonbro studio from Pexels; Photo by H.F.E & Co Studio on Unsplash; MART PRODUCTION from Pexels; murat esibatir from Pexels
Overall, as is the case with previous trends, there are always exceptions that work better than typical examples. Some styles work better for some than others. Ultimately, it is up to the individual to decide what works for them and to find versions of these trends they want to try. Have fun and experiment with these and other trends because fashion should be fun and full of adventure.
Sources:
Alaïa Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th, 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/alaia-rtw-spring-1235240978/.
Alice + Olivia Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved November 13th, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/alice-olivia .
AZ Factory Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved November 13th, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/az-factory#gallery-collection.
Balmain Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved November 13th, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/balmain#gallery-collection.
Blumarine Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved November 13th, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/blumarine#gallery-collection.
Brunello Cucinelli Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved November 13th, 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/brunello-cucinelli-rtw-spring-1235344561/brunello-cucinelli-rtw-spring-2023/.
Burberry Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved November 13th, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/burberry-prorsum#gallery-collection.
Carolina Herrera Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved November 13th, 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/carolina-herrera-rtw-spring-1235323332/carolina-herrera-rtw-spring-2023-56/.
Chanel Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th, 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/chanel-rtw-spring-1235376993/.
Chloé Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved November 12th, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/chloe#gallery-collection.
Coperni Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved November 12th, 2022, from https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2023-ready-to-wear/coperni#review.
Dion Lee Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th, 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/dion-lee-rtw-spring-1235319511/.
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https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/elie-saab-rtw-spring-1235370187/.
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Givenchy Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved November 9th, 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/givenchy-rtw-spring-1235371931/.
Gucci Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved October 9th, 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/gucci-rtw-spring-1235350089/.
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Monse Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear (2022). Retrieved November 9th, 2022, from https://wwd.com/fashion-news/shows-reviews/gallery/monse-rtw-spring-1235315166/monse-rtw-spring-2023-9/.
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